Yes, it's vexed a number of folks over the years.
Eventually, can't remember exactly when/what-version, the devs added a UI toggle so you can click the (confusing to me) calendar date at the top of the main game window and it changes to displaying turns. Unfortunately, the setting is not sticky, so you have to do it for every game session you start.
The timescale thing for Civ-type games has never been ideal. No one's managed to come up with a good 'temporal transmission' mechanic that lets you both manage the rise and fall of a civilization while also managing specific battles and construction projects.