I don't even know where you begin to gather that, somehow, critics care more about criticism in the vein of literary and cinema critics as opposed to "the gamers view." The mere idea that critics are somehow not taping into the vein of the mainstream is just absolutely absurd.
A majority of journalists right now write exactly the kinds of articles you're looking for and that, to me, is a crime. You could be drunk and blind and point at any game review for any game on Metacritic and you'd end up with a review that had the sole purpose of advising the consumer about whether or not a game is a "good buy." This is all well and good, but you end up with dozens upon dozens of reviews for the same game that all serve the same purpose and, generally, provide very little reason to read more than one review ever.
As for the seven-to-nine scale, that's a problem with the rating system on the whole. No single establishment is to blame for it. As a gamer, would you buy a game that scored a 5 across the board even if it's still in a genre you're interested in? Maybe you would, but chances are you see a game at 50% -- which means it's mediocre and may contain some legitimate fun gameplay for people who want it -- you're going to avoid it like the plague.
I know it's not a cool opinion since we're all against the grain here and fighting against the critical man but, if you looked the accumulated reviews for your favorite games, I bet you'd find that reviewers agreed with you. Game reviewers are, on the whole, vastly more in touch with the gaming masses than the kind of critics you'd see in film or literature. Gaming critics can appreciate a fun game of the hardcore independent variety (Castle Crashers, World of Goo, Braid, Darwinia, etc.) just as much as they appreciate the sports games (FIFA 09, Madden NFL 09, and NHL 09 are all very well-received this year) and the AAA blockbuster titles (Grand Theft Auto 4, Fallout 3, Far Cry 2, Fable 2, and, most likely, Gears of War 2).
So, really, I'm not entirely sure what the point of the article is. Yes, everyone loves Penny-Arcade and Zero Punctuation, but they're just providing the thoughts of two individual people who tend to either be in line with reviews or, in the case of games like Assassins Creed, go against the grain in support of the game. And, in the case of a game like Assassins Creed, I think you'll find that the reviewers represent the majority opinion far more accurately than Penny-Arcade did.